Continued from Part 1…
On Tuesday we made our way South out of Haverfordwest, over Cleddau Bridge and the Cleddau Ddu (river), through Pembroke Docks, and into Pembroke for the first chunk of sightseeing for the day. Once again it was looking like rain, so we donned our coats and walked up the hill to the town centre.
Pembroke Castle
Pembroke Castle was our first stop of the day. We walked half way around the walls when Helen’s spider-sense started to tingle, and she said “It’s going to rain any minute, I’m going to get a cup of tea from the cafe.” I didn’t believe her, so continued on my photography journey.
Low and behold, not thirty seconds after she’d ordered her drink, a torrential downpour began with me stuck outside again. Oh well!
I navigated the castle, including climbing to the top of the great keep which had several warnings about it being a steep 100-stair climb, not suitable for all. “I’m not like other boys,” I said, marching up the stairs to the top!
Henry VII was born here back in 1457, whose father we visited entombed in St Davids yesterday.
After a little longer in the rain, I joined Helen in the cafe, had a little slice of cake, and we went on to explore the town.
Pembroke
The rain had slowed to a drizzle by this point, so we meandered up and down the high street, in and out of several shops. Helen bought a new bag, then an old lady nearly ran us over on a pedestrian crossing, but otherwise not a lot to report. It’s a nice little castle town.
Carew Castle
Just 10 minutes down the road from Pembroke is another nice castle in a small village named Carew. Helen was done with the rain by this point, so I dropped her off at the Carew Inn (where we planned to have lunch shortly), and went on to the castle alone. The run-up to the castle was lined with flags, and it was nice to see the progress pride flag on the approach too.
There were fragments of a spiral staircase remaining in the main gatehouse, but I thought I’d done enough climbing yesterday, so best not try my luck today. Even though I’m sure I could’ve easily reached the top!
The castle was definitely my sort of castle, mostly ruined but climbable, reminding me a little of Conwy up near us. In the entrance hall, they had not one, but two models of the castle! Everyone knows I love a good model.
The castle was modified several times over the centuries, originally consisting of just a small chapel tower in the 13th century, a great hall was added in the 14th, various additional walls in the 15th, and a large residence in the Elizabethan era in the 16th century, I love this diagram showing the “plan of the castle with chronological stratification according to D.J. Cathcart King and J. Clifford Perks”. What a great term. Chronological stratification. I’ll have to slip that into casual conversation in the future!
I very much enjoyed exploring this castle. It had a good mix of both exterior…
And interior!
Lunch
Lunch at the Carew Inn was delicious! I had a steak and mushroom pie, while Helen had a chicken tikka masala (with half-and-half).
Lamphey Bishops Palace
After lunch, we drove about 10 minutes around to Lamphey Bishops Palace, another ruined 14th century parsonage similar to the one at St Davids yesterday.
There’s a single tower remaining in the middle of the grassy area (although this used to be a gatehouse to an inner walled area), then some larger structures on the South side, including three large halls, built during different periods. When the bishops decided one hall was too small, they built a bigger one, and converted the smaller one into something else like a kitchen!
When you see the size and scale of these bishop’s palaces, you can see why Henry VIII wanted to shut them all down and take the money for himself! This one was surrendered to him in 1546.
Now with suitably soggy socks, I got back in the car, and we headed back to the AirBnB to relax.
A Relaxing Evening
From about 4pm onwards, we simply relaxed in the AirBnB, then went down into Haverfordwest for a drink and more reading/writing (Helen read her book while I wrote this blog).
I’m sure we’ll be back in the rain again tomorrow!
So many interesting castles to explore in that area and delicious food to sustain you, what more could you ask for? Good weather perhaps.
Glad you didn’t attempt what was left of the spiral staircase, think you may have come a cropper.
I only didn’t climb it because I’d already proven to Helen that I can climb cliffs once this holiday, I don’t need to do it again. Besides, she wasn’t there to see, so I didn’t need to show off.
Two excellent castles, shame about the rain. Still you managed to get some excellent photos. It’s strange isn’t it, Mum and I were just talking about Chronological stratification the other day in the archeological context as we were digging in the garden.
Of course, chronological stratification is something that’s always on my mind.